We feed grain all year. We feed three different
grain mixes depending on the needs of the goat.
Our bucks get a goat feed mixed by our mill. It
contains corn, oats, soybean, molasses, minerals and ammonium chloride.
Our does are fed a grain mix of corn, barley,
alfalfa pellets, goat feed, and sunflower seeds.
Our kids are fed a mix of Starmaster medicated goat
feed, calf manna, sunflower seeds and alfalfa pellets.
Free choice minerals are offered at all times
including selenium, sulfur, baking soda and kelp when available.
We feed second cutting grass hay.
Fresh water is always available.
We follow the FAUMACHA method of worming and worm
when needed, not on a schedule.
We worm with all three families of wormers rotating
wormers when one looses its effectiveness. We prefer Cydectin, Dectomax
(injectable), Valbazen, and Prohibit. We do not worm with Ivomec or
Safeguard because we have not seen good results with these wormers.
We use Ivomec Pour-On for lice and delice our goats
at shearing and as needed. Goats are always treated before leaving the
We shear twice a year: spring and fall.
We depend on the weather to determine actual times.
We like to shear in Feb/March and August/Sept. But we are flexible about
We shear with dog clippers with blocking blades. I
like the Andis pro clipper with the 2 speeds, but any powerful
professional clipper will work and I have used these for years. They
work on all my herd and I have sheared a lot of goats with those. I do
not like sheep shears because of the weight, heat and vibration and the
added danger to both myself and the animal, but this is my choice and
there is nothing wrong with using sheep shears.
I shear on a shearing stand and feel it is an
excellent investment both for the ease of handling and for the back
strain it prevents for me. I can take my time and enjoy getting to know
the fleece of the animal as I shear. I skirt as I shear.
I trim hooves at shearing and as needed.
I use woven wire goat fence with a hot wire 15" off
the ground for most of my fence. I also use cattle and goat panels.
I do not ever use barbed wire and feel it is very dangerous for angoras
because they get tangled in it and can die from exposure. High tensile
and straight electric fence did not work for my goats.
We do have predators where we are and keep donkeys
to protect the herd as well as bringing the goats into the barn every
We use scrapie tags to identify our angora goats
and tattoos to identify our dairy goats.
We vaccinate all our goats for CD&T and in years
where rabies is high we vaccinate for that as well. BoSe and MuSe
are also used in the herd.
We like using a van or car or SUV to transport
because we can keep an eye on the goats and they are kept at a
comfortable temperature since we are there. Trucks with caps work as
long as the cap is secure and air flow is good. Horse and stock trailers
are fine, but the goats are small so it may be a lot of gas to use if
you are only transporting a couple goats. Don't use sawdust or wood
chips if there is a chance of it blowing around because it can get into
their eyes and throat and cause irritation.
Council of America
Normal Goat Health:
Temperature = 102.5 - 104 - This varies depending on the temperature of
the goat's surroundings.
Pulse rate = 70 - 80 beats per minute
Respiration =15 to 30 per minute
Rumen (stomach) movements = 1 - 1.5 per minute
Puberty = 7 weeks - 8 months (angora goats mature a bit slower)
Estrus/Heat Cycle = 17 to 23 days
Gestation = 143 to 155 days
Care (My hat goes off to Fias Co Farm for compiling all this
Goat Information ( an excellent site for information)
Vet Manual on line
Adults wormed with Valbazen 6/6/09
Adults wormed with Cydectin 5/29/09
kids treated with corrid 5/23/09
kids wormed with valbazen and given
cd&t and MuSe boosters 5/24/09
hooves trimmed on kids 5/24/09